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Kinsale via Dunbrody Famine Ship and Kennedy Homestead

8/21/2019

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Wednesday, 21 August 2019

We slept in a bit as usual, got ready, made and ate breakfast, and hit the road just after 10 AM.  Today we have two stops before we arrive at our overnight town of Kinsale.  First stop is the Dunbrody Famine Ship.  The Dunbrody was built in Quebec in 1845 (this is a replica) as a trading vessel originally set sailed to America, empty, and returned with goods.  During the Great Potato Famine from 1945-49, the captains realized that they can make extra money by loading the ship with families wanting to escape Ireland.
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The Dunbrody (replica)
The cost of admissions included a tour of the Dunbrody.  Here he is standing in front of the actual bell that was on the original Dunbrody.  
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The tour guide told us that the ship held about 200 passengers who each got 30 minutes a day to go on deck to get air and cook.  We then went below to see how they all lived.

Each of these 6 x 6 feet beds were shared by up to 6 people, possibly strangers for the 50 day trip over the ocean.  Supposedly, the captain of this famine ship was a good man, making the Dunbrody one of the more "survivable" famine ships of the time.

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Cramped quarters
It is interesting to see how much the voyage cost and what was included as far as accommodations and food.
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Outside the ship was "The Emigrant Flame".  It is from the same fire that burns at JFK's grave in Arlington Cemetery.  Why, you may ask did they take the JFK flame?  Well, there is a connection between JFK and the Dunbrody, and this area of Ireland.
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According to a plaque in the Dunbrody Museum, "In October 1848, Patrick Kennedy left New Ross for Liverpool on the Dunbrody, to escape the famine and catch a Packet Ship to Boston to work as a cooper.  Not long after his arrival, he married Bridget Murphy from Cloonagh, New Orss, a neighboring Parish.  They eventually had 5 children.  On 22nd November, 1858 the year their son PJ (Patrick Joseph) was born, Patrick died of cholera."

So, JFK's great-grandfather, Patrick Kennedy, a local in this area, took the Dunbrody over to the United States.  In June 1963, just a few months before he was shot, JFK and his family traveled to visit his great-grandfathers homestead here in New Ross.  When we was shot, the White House invited his Ireland family to attend the funeral.  At the funeral, Jackie Kennedy presented this relative with the set of rosaries and JFK's doglegs, both of which was on his person when he was assassinated.  

When she returned to Ireland, they decided to set up a museum dedicated to the Kennedy family on the grounds of the homestead.  Since it was just a few miles away, we had to visit.
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Rosaries that JFK was carrying on the day of his death.
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Dog tags JFK was carrying on the day of his death
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The Kennedy Homestead
On the way to Kinsale after the Kennedy Homestead, we stopped on the side of the road in the town of Dungarvan.  The extreme tide is this area is incredible.  It must be at least a 10 foot difference between high and low tide.  These photos show that boats are grounded during the low tide.
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Tim's cool panoramic of the low tide
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Boats grounded during low tide
At this point we should have only had 1 hour and 20 minutes to get to Kinsale.  However, we hit a huge traffic jam in Cork and it took about 3 hours.  I was quite happy when we arrived at our AirBnB, especially seeing a pub right across the street.
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The Tap Tavern just outside our door
We got settled in and I did a search to find a restaurant for dinner.  I picked out an asian restaurant because I still have a cold, and soup sounded good.  The turned out that the place was pretty good.  After dinner we went to the market and picked up some items for breakfast.
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Christine and I browsing the dairy section
We returned home with our groceries and Barb, Tim, and I went across the street to the Tap Tavern.  The bartender was Mary who must be in her mid-80s.  They call her the godmother of Kinsale.  What an incredible woman. Tim and I had a pint of Beamish Irish Stout.  I never heard of it, but it was excellent.
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After the pint we returned to the AirBnB and I typed up yesterday's blog, just as I am doing tonight, typing up this blog the next day.

Tomorrow we meander around the town of Kinsale. It should be a good day.
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