14 July 2020
Day 1 - Sail from Port Sanilac to Harbor Beach, MI (26 NM)
Just set sail from Port Sanilac, Michigan. We plan on sailing around Lake Huron and Lake Michigan for at least the next 3 weeks. Today we are sailing 30 miles to Harbor Beach to anchor out for the night since the marina is closed. Sailing might be the ultimate way to isolate.
Special thanks to our awesome friends Jim and Mary Wilson for allowing us to use their Catalina 30, Aboat Time, this summer as they isolate in California.
Favorable winds all day. Some amazing sailing boats were headed south, back to Detroit after Saturday’s Port Huron to Mackinaw race. We were welcomed into Harbor Beach by a beautiful lighthouse. The marina is being repaired, so we anchored out for the night.
Day 1 - Sail from Port Sanilac to Harbor Beach, MI (26 NM)
Just set sail from Port Sanilac, Michigan. We plan on sailing around Lake Huron and Lake Michigan for at least the next 3 weeks. Today we are sailing 30 miles to Harbor Beach to anchor out for the night since the marina is closed. Sailing might be the ultimate way to isolate.
Special thanks to our awesome friends Jim and Mary Wilson for allowing us to use their Catalina 30, Aboat Time, this summer as they isolate in California.
Favorable winds all day. Some amazing sailing boats were headed south, back to Detroit after Saturday’s Port Huron to Mackinaw race. We were welcomed into Harbor Beach by a beautiful lighthouse. The marina is being repaired, so we anchored out for the night.
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15 July 2020
Day 2 - Sail from Harbor Beach to Port Austin, MI (25 NM)
Favorable winds until the last 4 miles when we had to power into the harbor.
Another welcoming lighthouse as we entered into Port Austin.
Tonight we were able to obtain a slip at the marina. After docking, we met with Jim Wilson’s brother and wife to obtain the dinghy which is currently tied to the dock. Now we can anchor out and use the dinghy to get to shore.
Went to a beer garden (outside seating) for a couple of beers then returned to the boat for salmon and couscous dinner.
Day 2 - Sail from Harbor Beach to Port Austin, MI (25 NM)
Favorable winds until the last 4 miles when we had to power into the harbor.
Another welcoming lighthouse as we entered into Port Austin.
Tonight we were able to obtain a slip at the marina. After docking, we met with Jim Wilson’s brother and wife to obtain the dinghy which is currently tied to the dock. Now we can anchor out and use the dinghy to get to shore.
Went to a beer garden (outside seating) for a couple of beers then returned to the boat for salmon and couscous dinner.
Tim and Port Austin Lighthouse
Aboat Time...our current house and transportation on Lake Huron.
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Dinghy aboard
Beer garden
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16 July 2020
Day 3 - Port Austin
We were awoken by banging around 3 am. A storm had come and the wind was blowing from the East pushing us up against the dock. We got out of bed, adjusted the lines, and added another fender. 3:45 am back to bed. The alarm went off at 6 am and there was still rain falling. We made a quick decision to stay put for the day and went back to sleep.
We awoke at 10 am and just hung out for the day. Sunset was beautiful, followed by watching Comet NEOWISE. Nice relaxing day.
Day 3 - Port Austin
We were awoken by banging around 3 am. A storm had come and the wind was blowing from the East pushing us up against the dock. We got out of bed, adjusted the lines, and added another fender. 3:45 am back to bed. The alarm went off at 6 am and there was still rain falling. We made a quick decision to stay put for the day and went back to sleep.
We awoke at 10 am and just hung out for the day. Sunset was beautiful, followed by watching Comet NEOWISE. Nice relaxing day.
Relaxing all day after the storm passed through.
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Sunset at Port Austin
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Calm seagulls at sunset.
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Panicked seagulls at sunset.
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Comet NEOWISE watching.
17 July 2020
Day 4 - Port Austin - Harrisville, MI (39 Nautical Miles)
Left Port Austin 8am for what we thought might be a 6 pm or later arrival at Harrisville, but winds were favorable and we made it by 3:30pm. At the last couple hours winds went from around 13 kts off the beam to close to 18 kts over the back. Higher winds created 3-5 ft waves, but from the back it was no issue. The Irish say “may you be blessed with fair winds and following seas” - we were living it. We lost sight of land for an hour or so, new experiences.
Day 4 - Port Austin - Harrisville, MI (39 Nautical Miles)
Left Port Austin 8am for what we thought might be a 6 pm or later arrival at Harrisville, but winds were favorable and we made it by 3:30pm. At the last couple hours winds went from around 13 kts off the beam to close to 18 kts over the back. Higher winds created 3-5 ft waves, but from the back it was no issue. The Irish say “may you be blessed with fair winds and following seas” - we were living it. We lost sight of land for an hour or so, new experiences.
Crossing Saginaw Bay - there be dragons here lol.
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At the dock in Harrisville Harbor - by evening more racing boats arrived on the way home - other power cruisers - busier than Port Austin.
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18 July 2020
Day 5 - Harrisville, MI
Thunderstorms in the forecast today, so time for a zero day. No sailing, just hanging out in Harrisville.
Surprise...we found a brewery just a 30 minute walk away. We arrived just before the storm did and hid under the patio roof while drinking our flight of beer. Alcona Brew Haus was a great find. Walking back we got some nice views of Lake Huron.
Day 5 - Harrisville, MI
Thunderstorms in the forecast today, so time for a zero day. No sailing, just hanging out in Harrisville.
Surprise...we found a brewery just a 30 minute walk away. We arrived just before the storm did and hid under the patio roof while drinking our flight of beer. Alcona Brew Haus was a great find. Walking back we got some nice views of Lake Huron.
Alcona Brew Haus
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Lake Huron in the distance
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19 July 2020
Day 6 - Harrisville, MI
Woke up to thunderstorms, so another day was spent in Harrisville. Today we didn’t even leave the marina. We barely even left the boat except to use the marina bathroom facilities.
Photos today are taken from the cockpit as we sit in the marina watching boats come and go as we play with our phones.
Another day, another sunset.
Day 6 - Harrisville, MI
Woke up to thunderstorms, so another day was spent in Harrisville. Today we didn’t even leave the marina. We barely even left the boat except to use the marina bathroom facilities.
Photos today are taken from the cockpit as we sit in the marina watching boats come and go as we play with our phones.
Another day, another sunset.
Thunderstorms abundant this morning. An excuse to chill.
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View of the marina from out cockpit.
The Dog’s Life.
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Playing on the phone all day.
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The sunset over the marina.
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20 July 2020
Day 7 - Harrisville, MI
We woke to a beautiful day. We should set sail and head north today, but this marina has a “Stay 3 nights, get one night free” special. We can not leave a free night on the table, so here we are for one more day.
We spent the morning and afternoon reading and relaxing. Around 4 PM we decided to take a walk and found a state park with a nice walking trail. On the way back we stopped at the market and bought ice cream. We returned to the marina and stuck up a conversation with a few fellow sailors. By the time we returned to the boat, the ice cream was melty and the container wouldn’t fit in our tiny freezer, so we had no other choice but to eat ice cream for dinner.
One last sunset photo of Harrisville Marina. We leave for sure tomorrow.
Day 7 - Harrisville, MI
We woke to a beautiful day. We should set sail and head north today, but this marina has a “Stay 3 nights, get one night free” special. We can not leave a free night on the table, so here we are for one more day.
We spent the morning and afternoon reading and relaxing. Around 4 PM we decided to take a walk and found a state park with a nice walking trail. On the way back we stopped at the market and bought ice cream. We returned to the marina and stuck up a conversation with a few fellow sailors. By the time we returned to the boat, the ice cream was melty and the container wouldn’t fit in our tiny freezer, so we had no other choice but to eat ice cream for dinner.
One last sunset photo of Harrisville Marina. We leave for sure tomorrow.
Sunset over Harrisville Marina
21 July 2020
Day 8 - Harrisville to Alpena, MI (26 nm)
Winds were light today for this next leg, and mostly right on the nose. Now a sailboat can travel in any direction, although the sails won’t work with the wind on the nose - you go in the direction of the wind round about in a way via a zig zag course. It takes a lot of time and distance to get any headway, it’s doable but this boat only burns a liter of diesel an hour. So the new experience today for us was motoring a sailboat without sail for 6 hours. We just set the rpms at 60%, adjusted the autopilot and monitored - time went faster than expected. In the last half an hour, winds picked up, and even swung about from rear. Our destination was well in sight so we continued motoring in.
Day 8 - Harrisville to Alpena, MI (26 nm)
Winds were light today for this next leg, and mostly right on the nose. Now a sailboat can travel in any direction, although the sails won’t work with the wind on the nose - you go in the direction of the wind round about in a way via a zig zag course. It takes a lot of time and distance to get any headway, it’s doable but this boat only burns a liter of diesel an hour. So the new experience today for us was motoring a sailboat without sail for 6 hours. We just set the rpms at 60%, adjusted the autopilot and monitored - time went faster than expected. In the last half an hour, winds picked up, and even swung about from rear. Our destination was well in sight so we continued motoring in.
Gerri monitoring under blue skies.
We met Trio in Harrisville the previous night. They passed us a couple hours out from Harrisville. They’re going farther today to Presque Isle, so are pressing faster. We gave a shout out to each other; their dog was excited to see us too.
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No “canvas hanging from the yard arms” today.
Sturgeon Point Light - from 1869.
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About 1/2 hour out we saw this fire starting wondering what it is. Ashore now we learned it was a newly refurbed saloon supposed to reopen the next day. The firemen were able to save the old theater adjacent.
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Brewery!
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22 July 2020
Day 9 - Alpena, MI
Another rainy day, another day spent on the boat in a marina. We slept in and skipped breakfast. I made dinner for lunch (vegetarian wet burritos) and we just chilled in the boat reading and playing on our phones.
Around sunset, just after 9 PM, we saw this passing by. What the heck?
Day 9 - Alpena, MI
Another rainy day, another day spent on the boat in a marina. We slept in and skipped breakfast. I made dinner for lunch (vegetarian wet burritos) and we just chilled in the boat reading and playing on our phones.
Around sunset, just after 9 PM, we saw this passing by. What the heck?
The future of water transportation?
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The future of water transportation?
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23 July 2020
Day 10 - Alpena to Presque Isle, MI (33 NM)
Today we go to an anchoring out spot in a natural harbor. Winds started low and off the nose again as we made our way, by diesel power, out of Thunder Bay. When we turned Northward the winds improved, but only for an hour of sailing. With winds close off the bow and light, we motor sailed the rest of the way. This meant we ran the engine with the main sail up, getting some forward pull from the sail.
Day 10 - Alpena to Presque Isle, MI (33 NM)
Today we go to an anchoring out spot in a natural harbor. Winds started low and off the nose again as we made our way, by diesel power, out of Thunder Bay. When we turned Northward the winds improved, but only for an hour of sailing. With winds close off the bow and light, we motor sailed the rest of the way. This meant we ran the engine with the main sail up, getting some forward pull from the sail.
Gilligan’s Island? No, Sugar Island on the edge of Thunder Bay.
Our “neighbors” - some at anchor, some tied on moorings.
Middle Island Light as seen while motor sailing North Northwest.
A peaceful sunset in the harbor.
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Thunder Bay Island Light on Thunder Bay Island.
Our location on arrival in the natural harbor.
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24 July 2020
Day 11 - Presque Isle Harbor to Rogers City, MI (17 nm)
A short run up to Rogers City today - yay, we were able to sleep in a bit. Another day of light winds right at our nose, so more motoring with the “iron sail” (no sails, just the trusty chugging diesel).
Day 11 - Presque Isle Harbor to Rogers City, MI (17 nm)
A short run up to Rogers City today - yay, we were able to sleep in a bit. Another day of light winds right at our nose, so more motoring with the “iron sail” (no sails, just the trusty chugging diesel).
A little lighthouse standing sentinel over Presque Isle Harbor as we depart. (Didn’t see a name on the chart, but guessing it’s called Presque Isle Harbor Light.)
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After rounding the southern tip of Presque Isle, we pass the namesake lighthouse. Lots of lighthouses huh - way back when, before modern navigation (gps, radar, and detailed charts), these lighthouse guided ships point to point and kept them off the rocks.
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In case you missed it in the last photo, here it is.
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Gerri enjoying the calm nearly windless seas, but the hum of the engine not so much.
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A tug pushing along a limestone barge.
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“Aboat Time” tucked away into our slip at Rogers City Marina.
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25 July 2020
Day 12 - Rogers City to Cheboygan, MI (35 nm)
Leaving early (for us 8am is early) we are excited about good winds off the beam. We scored 10-14 knots just ahead of beam for over 4 hours - that gave us mostly 5 kts, at times faster, right on course, 1/2 knot faster than engine cruise setting. But then winds became stronger and didn’t come southwest as predicted, but we pressed with sails northwestward even though the course turned more and more westward. Finally we caved, as stronger winds didn’t even favor the big Genoa out front, and turned into 16-18 kts wind off the bow the last 2 1/2 hours into Cheboygan going ahead 3 1/2 - 4 kts. Good results still versus the last two stretches of mostly motoring.
Day 12 - Rogers City to Cheboygan, MI (35 nm)
Leaving early (for us 8am is early) we are excited about good winds off the beam. We scored 10-14 knots just ahead of beam for over 4 hours - that gave us mostly 5 kts, at times faster, right on course, 1/2 knot faster than engine cruise setting. But then winds became stronger and didn’t come southwest as predicted, but we pressed with sails northwestward even though the course turned more and more westward. Finally we caved, as stronger winds didn’t even favor the big Genoa out front, and turned into 16-18 kts wind off the bow the last 2 1/2 hours into Cheboygan going ahead 3 1/2 - 4 kts. Good results still versus the last two stretches of mostly motoring.
Gerri giving the sign of approval - sailing north again.
Turning westward now, under diesel power, we pass Poe Reef Light, in the Straits of Mackinac.
Coming and going traffic 45 minutes out of Cheboygan.
Almost there, Fourteen Foot Shoal Light, we turned Southwest now into Cheboygan.
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Forty Mile Point Light.
Great Lakes freighter - we saw it an hour ahead wondering which way it would pass - under sail we have the right-of-way, but all little boats like us give way to commerce.
Gerri: “I’m the captain now.”
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26 - 27 July 2020
Day 13 & 14 - Cheboygan, MI
Weather was forecasted for Sunday and Monday, so when we arrived, we paid for 3 nights. We woke on Sunday morning to rain, as predicted. We slept in and hung out on the boat till the weather passed around 2 PM, and then disembarked. Cheboygan Brewing Company is about 1 mile away, so off went.
It was pretty good beer, and Cheboygan is a pretty nice little city as you can tell by the goofy photos we took after imbibing at the brewery.
Monday wound up being a nice day and we contemplated leaving early, but it is a nice marina with WiFi, so we decided to stay and work on our itinerary. Our trip is now planned out a couple of more weeks. At this point we have no idea when we will head back to our home port of Port Sanilac. All we know is that we have a condo rented in Florida starting 1 October, so until then, hopefully it will be smooth sailing.
Day 13 & 14 - Cheboygan, MI
Weather was forecasted for Sunday and Monday, so when we arrived, we paid for 3 nights. We woke on Sunday morning to rain, as predicted. We slept in and hung out on the boat till the weather passed around 2 PM, and then disembarked. Cheboygan Brewing Company is about 1 mile away, so off went.
It was pretty good beer, and Cheboygan is a pretty nice little city as you can tell by the goofy photos we took after imbibing at the brewery.
Monday wound up being a nice day and we contemplated leaving early, but it is a nice marina with WiFi, so we decided to stay and work on our itinerary. Our trip is now planned out a couple of more weeks. At this point we have no idea when we will head back to our home port of Port Sanilac. All we know is that we have a condo rented in Florida starting 1 October, so until then, hopefully it will be smooth sailing.
Cheboygan Brewing Company...yum.
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Tim likes this wall...
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Gerri likes this wall...
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This is about as close as Tim will come to catching a fish....
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....according to this wise old owl.
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Taking a breather on the way back to the marina.
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Monday’s walk to buy bread. The closed bread we could find was a 30 minute walk from the marina. Oh well...we could use the exercise.
28 July 2020
Day 15 - Cheboygan to Mackinac, MI (15 nm)
Pronounced “Mack-in-naw”. We left Cheboygan at 830am, kinda early for a short cross to this island of some legend, but arriving early will allow us to explore it enough to leave the next day morning. With the winds forecast, there was not much hope for sailing once again. Yeah, we ended up with 10-15 kts right over the bow again. It actually became a bit rough with up to 4 foot waves for some of it, which with the headwind, gave us a 4 hour transit.
Of course Native Americans were here first, but the first European came as early as 1634. A center of fur trade and British occupation during the Revolutionary War and War of 1812. Now a tourist mecca with many ferry boats bringing fudge eating peoples for day trips. For those wishing to increase their fudge appetite, there are miles of scenic hiking and biking trails. There’s also the legendary horse carriage rides - “pew-you-we”.
Day 15 - Cheboygan to Mackinac, MI (15 nm)
Pronounced “Mack-in-naw”. We left Cheboygan at 830am, kinda early for a short cross to this island of some legend, but arriving early will allow us to explore it enough to leave the next day morning. With the winds forecast, there was not much hope for sailing once again. Yeah, we ended up with 10-15 kts right over the bow again. It actually became a bit rough with up to 4 foot waves for some of it, which with the headwind, gave us a 4 hour transit.
Of course Native Americans were here first, but the first European came as early as 1634. A center of fur trade and British occupation during the Revolutionary War and War of 1812. Now a tourist mecca with many ferry boats bringing fudge eating peoples for day trips. For those wishing to increase their fudge appetite, there are miles of scenic hiking and biking trails. There’s also the legendary horse carriage rides - “pew-you-we”.
We had an intersecting course with this old boy, but steered parallel left long enough for him to pass.
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View of the Mackinac Bridge with ferry from Mac City to Mac Isle.
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Many trails and even some “get-aways“ here.
Oh my gawd, thar be pirates!
Our boat is the first mast to the right - with the high Lake Huron water level there’s no electric for the boats so the slip price was right, $41 for this up and coming neighborhood.
Walking past the fort above the town and harbor - seems like a good spot to defend the place, although the Americans were caught by surprise at the beginning of the War of 1812 and lost the fort to the British.
Skyline, water, and sky...
Arch Rock, where we started our trail walk.
One of the views from the bluffs trail.
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Approaching the harbor we see the Grand Hotel.
Getting closer, wondering what awaits us...
Masked up for the masses.
We avoided the crowds and toured downtown after all the day trippers left, after 8pm, later on.
Freight hauling horses bringing the latest deliveries inland from the port. We only saw one motor vehicle in our time here, the island ambulance.
A perfect island house.
Where’s Waldo?
Greetings and farewell from Mackinac Island.
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29 July 2020
Day 16 - Mackinac Island to Beaver Island, MI (40 nm)
Today we island hop. Winds aren’t helping us again 5-10 kts off the bow. So we had a long diesel run of over 9 hours, and we took shifts at the helm. The waves weren’t bad, so all in all it was okay. We would have liked to sail under the big bridge and into Lake Michigan, but we’re still on a cool boat in a cool place (and the air temperature is cool as well).
Beaver Island promises more great outdoors stuff, but in a far more laid back atmosphere.
Day 16 - Mackinac Island to Beaver Island, MI (40 nm)
Today we island hop. Winds aren’t helping us again 5-10 kts off the bow. So we had a long diesel run of over 9 hours, and we took shifts at the helm. The waves weren’t bad, so all in all it was okay. We would have liked to sail under the big bridge and into Lake Michigan, but we’re still on a cool boat in a cool place (and the air temperature is cool as well).
Beaver Island promises more great outdoors stuff, but in a far more laid back atmosphere.
We approach the great Mackinac Bridge from a perspective we have never seen before after having been across it by car several times over the years.
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Hope our mast clears - no problem, we cleared it by over 100 feet with our 50 foot mast.
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Some hours later we made it to Beaver Island Harbor. To our right another Catalina 30, a 1987 model (the Wilson’s boat we’re on, a 1992), sailed by two couples from this side of lower Michigan.
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The water here is amazingly clear.
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Boats at anchor in the bay.
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Lighthouse and Central Michigan University biological station buildings on a point of the harbor.
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Old saying “red sky at night, sailors delight” meaning it portends good weather for tomorrow.
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30 July 2020
Day 17 - Beaver Island, MI (0 nm)
Today no boat travel, we had another island to explore. Yes, this island has no fudgie peoples, and is small town relatively remote Michigan. It’s a two hour ferry crossing from the mainland.
This marina had two loaner bikes, which allowed us to take in the farmers market 5 miles out of town. Although not much was to be had there since we got there kinda late. Tim was able to visit the airport across the road and was in need of some lube for the bike chain, which kept jumping the sprocket. The best they had was coconut butter, which amazingly solved the issue.
Day 17 - Beaver Island, MI (0 nm)
Today no boat travel, we had another island to explore. Yes, this island has no fudgie peoples, and is small town relatively remote Michigan. It’s a two hour ferry crossing from the mainland.
This marina had two loaner bikes, which allowed us to take in the farmers market 5 miles out of town. Although not much was to be had there since we got there kinda late. Tim was able to visit the airport across the road and was in need of some lube for the bike chain, which kept jumping the sprocket. The best they had was coconut butter, which amazingly solved the issue.
The cabin of Feodor Protar, a healer of Beaver Island. Born in 1837, he began to live on Beaver Island in 1893 and died in 1925. His story is an interesting read. There’s also rich Irish heritage and a short but prolific fishing story. And then there’s some Mormon history which did not go well. (Check it out on Wikipedia)
Beech cruiser bikes in the deep forest.
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Beech cruiser bikes in the deep forest.
Another stop at a popular beach park.
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31 July 2020
Day 18 - Beaver Island to Naubinway, MI (25 nm)
We were originally planning to head southward about 40 nm to Charlevoix and onto Traverse Bay by Monday. We talked with people that said C-voix was a madhouse on the weekend, and we were now on three nights without shore power for the batteries. Slips there sounded dubious. North on to the Upper Peninsula perhaps?
Meanwhile late afternoon yesterday we tried to fire up the diesel to charge the batteries for 3 hours. The engine wouldn’t go. After using the decompression lever we achieved start and ran for 2 1/2 hours at the dock. Hmmmm, are these batteries depleted? This morning the starter wouldn’t even talk to us. To end this saga quickly, with young Ed’s help at the marina we found the solenoid red wire hanging out loose from the solenoid. We figure Mr. Red Wire was barely hanging on yesterday. Crimp crimp to tighten and shoving it on, and engine run all seems normal now. Stuff happens.
Just to be risk adverse we push the 25 nm to Naubinway north to the UP and a sure slip with shore power. Winds non-existent till the last 20 minutes of a 4 hour run we find a quiet sleepy village of paradise in the UP.
Day 18 - Beaver Island to Naubinway, MI (25 nm)
We were originally planning to head southward about 40 nm to Charlevoix and onto Traverse Bay by Monday. We talked with people that said C-voix was a madhouse on the weekend, and we were now on three nights without shore power for the batteries. Slips there sounded dubious. North on to the Upper Peninsula perhaps?
Meanwhile late afternoon yesterday we tried to fire up the diesel to charge the batteries for 3 hours. The engine wouldn’t go. After using the decompression lever we achieved start and ran for 2 1/2 hours at the dock. Hmmmm, are these batteries depleted? This morning the starter wouldn’t even talk to us. To end this saga quickly, with young Ed’s help at the marina we found the solenoid red wire hanging out loose from the solenoid. We figure Mr. Red Wire was barely hanging on yesterday. Crimp crimp to tighten and shoving it on, and engine run all seems normal now. Stuff happens.
Just to be risk adverse we push the 25 nm to Naubinway north to the UP and a sure slip with shore power. Winds non-existent till the last 20 minutes of a 4 hour run we find a quiet sleepy village of paradise in the UP.
Glassy waters on north Lake Michigan.
Waiting for nightfall sitting on the dock of the bay.
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Setting aside Gerri’s cooking, the best meal of the trip so far. Other competition has been outside bar food, some bland Asian, and pizza. This was nicely seasoned whitefish, salad, potato soup, baked potato and cheesecake. And a side of Keenwanaw beer.
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If only we had one of the those new fangled drones, this would be the view. Although in reality there are two sailboats here and two other transients (little trawler and a catamaran).
Moon headed down toward the horizon we crossed earlier today.
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1 - 2 August 2020
Days 19-20 - Naubinway MI (0 nm)
The Upper Peninsula!! - let’s stay for a spell!
Brent and Shawn, who both watch over this little marina, fill us in on all the amenities. The marina also serves as the local town “take a dip” spot. It’s a nice walk into town, less than a mile, which gives the marina distance from the busy and noisy US 2 route.
Interesting side note - US 2 is the same highway out west going over Rainey Pass Washington where Gerri and Brad waited out a big snow to push the last 60 miles into Canada to complete the PCT in 2016.
We had two days of peace, quiet, friendly people and good food. The kinda people you’d want as a neighbor. The kinda food that tastes so good, it must be bad for you.
Days 19-20 - Naubinway MI (0 nm)
The Upper Peninsula!! - let’s stay for a spell!
Brent and Shawn, who both watch over this little marina, fill us in on all the amenities. The marina also serves as the local town “take a dip” spot. It’s a nice walk into town, less than a mile, which gives the marina distance from the busy and noisy US 2 route.
Interesting side note - US 2 is the same highway out west going over Rainey Pass Washington where Gerri and Brad waited out a big snow to push the last 60 miles into Canada to complete the PCT in 2016.
We had two days of peace, quiet, friendly people and good food. The kinda people you’d want as a neighbor. The kinda food that tastes so good, it must be bad for you.
Returning from one of the trips to town with diesel, craft beer, and fresh whitefish.
“Aboat Time” still sitting out on the dock of the bay, just wasting the time away.
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We love this bar. In three trips we had that fantastic whitefish supper; a couple of pitchers of you know what along with much back porch discussion with some locals about cruising, saw milling, and military memories; and the last session was watching the live feed of the space daddies’ Pensacola splashdown.
Gerri in her happy place with yet another twist on peanut flavored porter - it’s odd she’s not a big fan of whole peanuts, unless they’re boiled (blecht) or brewed.
This place, Moofinfries, had burgers as good as Five Guys, and whitefish for Gerri.
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3 August 2020
Day 21 - Naubinway to Manistique, MI (39 NM)
We continue westward to the next port. We have fortunate winds today, starting strong and off the beam again. We are able to sail port to port. It’s chilly though in the 60’s with clouds and a north sourced breeze.
Day 21 - Naubinway to Manistique, MI (39 NM)
We continue westward to the next port. We have fortunate winds today, starting strong and off the beam again. We are able to sail port to port. It’s chilly though in the 60’s with clouds and a north sourced breeze.
We depart.
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Yes, we are sailing with only the sound of wind and water rushing by.
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Seul Choix Point Light
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A limestone freighter at rest waiting for the time to come around the lighthouse and load up at the coast side quarry.
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We get a closer look as we pass by hugging the shoreline closer to tame the waves.
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The wind is getting stronger gusting to 18 kts so we have rolled up the front sail.
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We made it, record time for us especially since we’ve never been here before. Sliding by Manistique Harbor Light.
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Who da thunk it - a brewery right across from the marina.
4 August 2020
Day 22 - Manistique, MI (0 NM)
Staying the day (and one more night) here. Running low on supplies - half rations may have to commence tomorrow, if the hunt today on the Upper Peninsula is unsuccessful. Especially need fresh produce. And free range tofu would be a big score.
Day 22 - Manistique, MI (0 NM)
Staying the day (and one more night) here. Running low on supplies - half rations may have to commence tomorrow, if the hunt today on the Upper Peninsula is unsuccessful. Especially need fresh produce. And free range tofu would be a big score.
We set off with the whole expedition on the line.
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Scenes along the way...
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A sighting of Manistique citizens - providing hope that a bounty awaits.
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Something good must be here - people fly in from far and wide.
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We’ve done it! The expedition is saved.
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Prosperity is restored.
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The day is done.
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5 - 6 August 2020
Days 23-24 - Manistique back to Beaver Island then to St. Ignace, MI (77 NM)
We had been considering going over to Escanaba, MI two more days travel west/southwest. But, looking at the calendar and still wanting to do more in the far northern reaches of Lake Huron we head back towards the Mackinac Straits.
We chose a return via Beaver Island as sailing winds looked stronger the next morning for day two versus going back through Naubinway.
Days 23-24 - Manistique back to Beaver Island then to St. Ignace, MI (77 NM)
We had been considering going over to Escanaba, MI two more days travel west/southwest. But, looking at the calendar and still wanting to do more in the far northern reaches of Lake Huron we head back towards the Mackinac Straits.
We chose a return via Beaver Island as sailing winds looked stronger the next morning for day two versus going back through Naubinway.
Your narrator for the following video.
Good wind and flatter seas now in the final miles today.
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A meeting of a fellow sailor northwest of Beaver Island.
Beaver Island Lighthouse once again - our first repeat port of the trip.
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The next day out of Beaver Island going under The Bridge again, and into St. Ignace. Another day another fellow sailor.
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There it is again . A bridge so big even the clouds sometimes don’t mind paying the toll to use it.
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Suspension cables and sailing lines.
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The mighty Mackinac.
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Sailing this time as we cross under. Okay, we were motor sailing as the wind angle wasn’t right to stay towards the middle.
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Sailing this time as we cross under. Okay, we were motor sailing as the wind angle wasn’t right to stay towards the middle.
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Fast ferry out of St Ignace bound for Mackinac Island.
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St. Ignace Lighthouse.
7 - 8 August 2020
Days 25-26 - St. Ignace, MI (0 nm)
Two more days of marina life - some rain, some sunshine.
From their website:
“Built in 2003, the St. Ignace Marina is a 136-slip state-of-the-art facility that can accommodate yachts up to 150′ in length. Our marina is conveniently located in downtown St. Ignace Michigan near shopping, restaurants, boat supplies, and groceries.”
St. Ignace is easily the largest marina on our voyage.
We were slipped on the same finger dock as this couple, Debbie and Mike, on their Catalina 23. They trailered from Sarasota Florida and are vacationing from the Summer heat up here for a couple months.
It was a place to watch the people come and go, enjoy some live music, and shoot the breeze with Debbie and Mike.
Days 25-26 - St. Ignace, MI (0 nm)
Two more days of marina life - some rain, some sunshine.
From their website:
“Built in 2003, the St. Ignace Marina is a 136-slip state-of-the-art facility that can accommodate yachts up to 150′ in length. Our marina is conveniently located in downtown St. Ignace Michigan near shopping, restaurants, boat supplies, and groceries.”
St. Ignace is easily the largest marina on our voyage.
We were slipped on the same finger dock as this couple, Debbie and Mike, on their Catalina 23. They trailered from Sarasota Florida and are vacationing from the Summer heat up here for a couple months.
It was a place to watch the people come and go, enjoy some live music, and shoot the breeze with Debbie and Mike.
Perfect view to watch the boaters come and go.
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Here’s are some right now.
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Eating the pasties, an Upper Peninsula staple.
Walking the boardwalk.
This trimaran monster rolled in the second day. It appears to be a one-off owner built boat.
Fireworks over the town on the last night - the bombs bursting in air.
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Town pride showing.
Catalina 30 next to the “23”.
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9 - 10 August 2020
Days 27-28 - St. Ignace to Hessel, MI (15 nm)
A short run northeast to begin our exploration of Les Cheneaux, a complex of islands and channels. With possible weather Sunday night through Monday we plan to stay two nights in the village marina at Hessel.
As it actually unfolded we had only 90 minutes of wind early Monday morning, and then fog a good bit of Monday afternoon.
After the mostly windless crossing, we found a laid back, off the beaten path sort of place. Lots of various local boaters and young kids fishing were viewed from our sailing “lounge”.
This weekend was supposed to be the big annual wooden boat show here. Alas, it was cancelled ‘cus you know why. We likely wouldn’t have even found a slip otherwise.
Days 27-28 - St. Ignace to Hessel, MI (15 nm)
A short run northeast to begin our exploration of Les Cheneaux, a complex of islands and channels. With possible weather Sunday night through Monday we plan to stay two nights in the village marina at Hessel.
As it actually unfolded we had only 90 minutes of wind early Monday morning, and then fog a good bit of Monday afternoon.
After the mostly windless crossing, we found a laid back, off the beaten path sort of place. Lots of various local boaters and young kids fishing were viewed from our sailing “lounge”.
This weekend was supposed to be the big annual wooden boat show here. Alas, it was cancelled ‘cus you know why. We likely wouldn’t have even found a slip otherwise.
Evocative sculpture. No info nearby.
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Our spot.
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Another beautiful sunset.
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And again some minutes later.
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The Les Cheneaux Islands are home to Fleet 31 of the Ensign Class, built from 1962 onward. The fleet sails out of the Les Cheneaux Yacht Club located on Marquette Island, just south of Hessel, and is the largest fleet of ensigns worldwide. This passed by just outside the marina.
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Bird visitor to our boat.
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And one more sunset. Just enough to declare “red skies at night, sailor’s delight.”
A resident big old wooden boat, 1920’s vintage? Older?
11 August 2020
Day 29 - Hessel to Arnold Point, Little LaSalle Island, MI (4.5 nm)
Today is going to a great day. Not only do we get to anchor out...one of our favorite things to do...we get to sail around and past many small islands called the Les Cheneaux Islands. Les Cheneaux Islands are made up of 36 islands running along 12 miles of Lake Huron shoreline.
Day 29 - Hessel to Arnold Point, Little LaSalle Island, MI (4.5 nm)
Today is going to a great day. Not only do we get to anchor out...one of our favorite things to do...we get to sail around and past many small islands called the Les Cheneaux Islands. Les Cheneaux Islands are made up of 36 islands running along 12 miles of Lake Huron shoreline.
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We’re home?!
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Cruising the channel.
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We’d like to meet the people who built this - the stories they would tell.
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Making our way southeast towards Little La Salle Island, Arnold Point.
On the “hook”, see the anchor line.
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Another Ensign Class Boat zooms by, this time around our anchorage.
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Like a fire in the forest.
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Watching the sunset, which took the better of an hour to happen.
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Good night from Arnold Point.
12 - 13 August 2020
Days 30 - 31 Arnold Point, Little LaSalle Island, to Cedarville, Les Cheneaux area, MI (2 nm)
A short motor north to the new marina at Cedarville. This is the heart of Les Cheneaux, where everyone comes for supplies, groceries, building materials, ice cream and whiskey.
Days 30 - 31 Arnold Point, Little LaSalle Island, to Cedarville, Les Cheneaux area, MI (2 nm)
A short motor north to the new marina at Cedarville. This is the heart of Les Cheneaux, where everyone comes for supplies, groceries, building materials, ice cream and whiskey.
A cottage in the woods...
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Les Cheneaux Distillery and Brewery - it’s what’s for dinner (just kidding)
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Us next to an O’Day 35.
Big Jim and Little Mary watching the sunset.
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Next to the marina, lots of vegetation.
The second day here is done.
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14 August 2020
Day 32 - Cedarville to De Tour Village, MI (24 nm)
Now we head to nearly as close as we can to the Canadian North Channel, which is unfortunately closed to US citizens due to Covid-19. De Tour Village is at the gateway to Lake Superior, with the canal locks of Sault Sainte Marie north up the waterway from here.
We’re starting to feel we need to move along on this trip. Today’s winds aren’t looking the best, but they say they might move off the nose and turn out of the Southeast past noon. Tomorrow’s waves are supposed to be higher.
Day 32 - Cedarville to De Tour Village, MI (24 nm)
Now we head to nearly as close as we can to the Canadian North Channel, which is unfortunately closed to US citizens due to Covid-19. De Tour Village is at the gateway to Lake Superior, with the canal locks of Sault Sainte Marie north up the waterway from here.
We’re starting to feel we need to move along on this trip. Today’s winds aren’t looking the best, but they say they might move off the nose and turn out of the Southeast past noon. Tomorrow’s waves are supposed to be higher.
Passing another Catalina 30 moored.
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Two sailing vessels coming slowly out of Government Bay, we passed them but they increased speed and stayed with us through the afternoon.
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It’s not looking good for efficient sailing today - wind exactly over the nose.
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Hmmmmmm, towards 3 hours to go 11 nm on this stretch (it actually got worse and took us almost 3 1/2 hours).
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Ah, made it to the turn at De Tour Reef Light, and can now turn north up the channel. Our friends appeared to head towards anchorage off Drummond Island.
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To the left, the eastern most point of Upper Michigan and to the right, the last land before Canada and the North Channel beyond.
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There goes a freighter down lakes bound / we watch from snugly in our slip at De Tour Village.
15 - 16 August 2020
Days 33 - 34 - De Tour Village, MI (0 nm)
Two days of mostly lounging around the marina, and seeing a few sights. Have a bit of weather passing through, nothing too serious.
Days 33 - 34 - De Tour Village, MI (0 nm)
Two days of mostly lounging around the marina, and seeing a few sights. Have a bit of weather passing through, nothing too serious.
Drummond Island Ferry - surprising amount of traffic comes and goes all day long.
Rusty, the good moose.
An older pilot boat that was used to guide freighters through the channel.
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At the De Tour Botanical Gardens - landscaped grounds with many little memorial spaces.
An older pilot boat that was used to guide freighters through the channel.
Halt!
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Good...
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...night!
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17 - 18 August 2020
Days 35 - 36 - De Tour Village to Harbor Island to Detour Village, MI (16 nm)
One last exploration before our voyage becomes “the return” journey. We head to anchorage in the inner “lagoon” of Harbor Island. The next day we returned to De Tour Village to charge the batteries and wake up early the next day for the first leg southward of our return.
Days 35 - 36 - De Tour Village to Harbor Island to Detour Village, MI (16 nm)
One last exploration before our voyage becomes “the return” journey. We head to anchorage in the inner “lagoon” of Harbor Island. The next day we returned to De Tour Village to charge the batteries and wake up early the next day for the first leg southward of our return.
Pipe Island and its lighthouse. Lake freighters pass along either side coming and going from/to Sault Ste Marie and Lake Superior.
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We approach the lagoon’s entrance.
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This sign is hard to read: “To all who come ashore: 1. Proceed only with armed wildlife service guard 2. If you do not see beasts, have no doubts, they are here among you. 3. Do not bring anything back, especially eggs. 4. Report all velociraptor sightings. 5. Enjoy your visit.
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Tying off the anchor. 10 feet of water.
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Very aptly named.
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Three other boats with us over night.
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19 August 2020
Day 37 - De Tour Village to Rogers City, MI (34 nm)
Heading mostly due South, hoping to set sails, but winds never amounted to much. At least the lake is flat so motoring is efficient - we don’t mind some good waves, but only under sail.
Today was a choice between 6 hours motoring or 16+ hours sailing. We’re now realizing that sailboat cruising, going point to point over weeks, involves a good bit of diesel time. We could wait for wind, but we’d rather save the delay days for truly stormy weather.
Day 37 - De Tour Village to Rogers City, MI (34 nm)
Heading mostly due South, hoping to set sails, but winds never amounted to much. At least the lake is flat so motoring is efficient - we don’t mind some good waves, but only under sail.
Today was a choice between 6 hours motoring or 16+ hours sailing. We’re now realizing that sailboat cruising, going point to point over weeks, involves a good bit of diesel time. We could wait for wind, but we’d rather save the delay days for truly stormy weather.
Looks like an open water crossing, but lower Michigan appeared on the horizon before Upper Michigan disappeared behind us.
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So long Upper Michigan, the green line gets thinner behind us. The UP is awesome - we shall return someday, maybe with our sea kayak on the roof of the 4Runner.
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Sunset at Rogers City - this looks like any number of sunset photos we have at other spots, but this is truly the “RC” spot - we almost always are treated to spectacular sunsets on the water.
20 - 21 August 2020
Days 38-39 - Rogers City, MI (0 nm)
With a chance of t-storms and a buy-2-nights-get the 3rd for free, we planned 3 nights lay over.
Days 38-39 - Rogers City, MI (0 nm)
With a chance of t-storms and a buy-2-nights-get the 3rd for free, we planned 3 nights lay over.
Cloud sailers.
Tim is holding a sweet corn “torch”, thanks to the Amish boys at the farmer’s market.
We found out why this marina didn’t have any goose poop spread about everywhere - it’s forbidden.
Whitefish and corn torches.
“Roll Tide!” For our friends Angie, George, and Dirt (& Pokey).
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Our living quarters - the afloat abode “Aboat Time”.
Large motor sailer staying the night. They have two live wiener dogs and one inflatable on the foredeck.
Tried to get a gull’s closeup, but it flew away.
It doesn’t take us too much prompting to stay put.
Rogers calls itself the “nautical city”.
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22 - 24 August 2020
Days 40 - 42 - Rogers City to Presque Isle, MI (17 nm)
Finally doing some sailing again getting down to Presque Isle.
We were hoping to continue on to Alpeena the next morning, but winds would be out of the South, with a chance of T-storms. And the following morning was a repeat forecast.
Oh well, we’d chosen to tie up in the marina versus anchoring out as we had done the last time we were here. This two days gave us time to explore the features here on land.
Days 40 - 42 - Rogers City to Presque Isle, MI (17 nm)
Finally doing some sailing again getting down to Presque Isle.
We were hoping to continue on to Alpeena the next morning, but winds would be out of the South, with a chance of T-storms. And the following morning was a repeat forecast.
Oh well, we’d chosen to tie up in the marina versus anchoring out as we had done the last time we were here. This two days gave us time to explore the features here on land.
Sailing on a rainy day.
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The old Presque Isle light points the way to the harbor.
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Hitting the trails the next day.
Chelada, chips, salsa, and guacamole makes a great lunch.
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On site at the old Presque Isle Light (1840).
Captain Ron never leaves his post (hmmm, looks more like a tree).
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Daytime Reflections.
New Presque Isle Light (1870) and light keepers quarters. Lots of activities here through the Summer - all cancelled - including their 150th anniversary celebration this year.
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On the marina loaner bikes heading to New Presque Isle Light.
Found a souvenir to take home.
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Back before the “new arrivals”, Native Americans came through this channel, crossed over the narrow bit of land (which if was not there would make Presque Isle a true island), and used the harbor as a base for fishing encampments.
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One more night before continuing southward.
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25 August 2020
Day 43 - Presque Isle to Alpena, MI (33 nm)
Onward southward homeport bound.
Day 43 - Presque Isle to Alpena, MI (33 nm)
Onward southward homeport bound.
Wind strength and direction looking favorable for sailing down and around to Alpena. This is the forecast 4 hours from when screenshot was saved.
Wind fills the sails for now, but later the wind slackened too much.
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Now departing - the view of the world’s largest open pit limestone quarry just south of Rogers City.
We see Middle Island Light again, this time from over our starboard rail.
And now Thunder Bay Island Light as we turn motor sailing southwest towards Alpena.
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Not the view you wanna see - if it were not at anchor.
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This ship was launched in Feb 1942 as the “Leon Fraser.” It carried iron ore at that time doing its part to win World War Two. In 1990 it was renamed the “Alpena.” The ship continues to carry freights on all 5 Great Lakes.
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26 August 2020
Day 44 - Alpena, MI (0 nm)
Stormy weather day off.
Day 44 - Alpena, MI (0 nm)
Stormy weather day off.
Having fun down on the gun range.
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The real story...
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The aftermath of the fire we saw burning as we arrived in Alpena the last time, heading northward. It’s amazing they saved the old theater next to it.
27 August 2020
Day 45 - Alpena to Harrisville, MI (26 nm)
Should get a decent wind from rear quarter, 10-15 kts today. Started out with some decent sailing for 2 1/2 hours
Day 45 - Alpena to Harrisville, MI (26 nm)
Should get a decent wind from rear quarter, 10-15 kts today. Started out with some decent sailing for 2 1/2 hours
A couple we met hoping to get all the way back to Bay City today. We left 40 minutes earlier, but they soon passed us by.
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Oh crap - had a bad moment some where past the mid-point today. Had the front sail get out past the forestay and it wrapped badly. Could not clear it. Manually lashed as much as we could out of the wind, but a small bit had to flap in the breeze the last two hours.
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28 - 29 August 2020
Days 46 - 47 - Harrisville, MI (0 nm)
More weather delays (unfavorable wind and some weather) - we hang again for a couple more days.
Days 46 - 47 - Harrisville, MI (0 nm)
More weather delays (unfavorable wind and some weather) - we hang again for a couple more days.
Beer.
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Ice Cream.
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30 August 2020
Day 48- Harrisville to Tawas City, MI (30 nm)
We might have crossed Saginaw Bay today direct to Port Austin, but the Bay is not a happy place today with up to 7 foot waves possible. So we head along the shore to Tawas Bay taking us still Southward.
Day 48- Harrisville to Tawas City, MI (30 nm)
We might have crossed Saginaw Bay today direct to Port Austin, but the Bay is not a happy place today with up to 7 foot waves possible. So we head along the shore to Tawas Bay taking us still Southward.
With a crippled sail in need of repair, but still feeling fortunate a floating along.
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Tawas Point Light (1853) - inside of Tawas Bay now.
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We come in just ahead of a boat out of Tawas Bay Yacht Club.
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Found yet another brewery.
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31 August 2020
Day 49 - Tawas City, MI (0 nm)
Winds are supposed to be 15 kts on the nose today for a crossing of Saginaw Bay. We stay another day in Tawas.
Day 49 - Tawas City, MI (0 nm)
Winds are supposed to be 15 kts on the nose today for a crossing of Saginaw Bay. We stay another day in Tawas.
Little tall ship in the bay.
Who remembers the Ben Franklin store - there’s still one here.
We slip into the night, heh he, get it?
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A rail way runs through it.
Lots of trim to keep painted here - a bnb.
In traffic or on a tall ship, no brainer here?!
Here’s another pretty one.
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Yes indeed.
1 September 2020
Day 50 - Tawas City to Port Austin, MI (26 nm)
With a successful crossing of upper Saginaw Bay, we’re getting closer to home port - 50 miles to go.
Day 50 - Tawas City to Port Austin, MI (26 nm)
With a successful crossing of upper Saginaw Bay, we’re getting closer to home port - 50 miles to go.
As we depart Tawas harbor, we get a closer look at the “little” tall ship tied along the break wall.
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A Michigan Department of Natural Resources boat passes us before we leave Tawas Bay - if you gotta work, this must be a dream job for some.
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2 - 3 September 2020
Days 51 - 52 - Port Austin, MI (0 nm)
Once again holding for weather.
Days 51 - 52 - Port Austin, MI (0 nm)
Once again holding for weather.
Moderate headwinds, which would make for a long slog on Wednesday to an anchorage.
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And the next day far worse conditions.
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A great day to be tied up in a marina.
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We prefer a walk in the woods.
4 - 5 September 2020
Days 53 - 54 - Port Austin to Port Sanilac, MI (50 nm)
And, we had one more delay on Friday - blasting winds, generally a bad direction.
Saturday is looking promising. Sunday is showing potential rain and gale force wind later in the day.
Saturday came and wind was okay. We need to press 50 nm all the way to home port, otherwise we could be at anchor wondering when a stiff southern wind would begin the next morning.
So we went the whole distance to complete our 2020 Great Lakes voyage.
Thanks to all for tuning into our trip. Hope you’re having an enjoyable Labor Day with as many friends and family as safely possible.
Days 53 - 54 - Port Austin to Port Sanilac, MI (50 nm)
And, we had one more delay on Friday - blasting winds, generally a bad direction.
Saturday is looking promising. Sunday is showing potential rain and gale force wind later in the day.
Saturday came and wind was okay. We need to press 50 nm all the way to home port, otherwise we could be at anchor wondering when a stiff southern wind would begin the next morning.
So we went the whole distance to complete our 2020 Great Lakes voyage.
Thanks to all for tuning into our trip. Hope you’re having an enjoyable Labor Day with as many friends and family as safely possible.
Stretching our legs in the last evening of the trip.
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Another old estate house still going strong in Port Austin.
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The forecast at wake up on Saturday - looking good.
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The face of a long day (10 hours).
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Passing Pointe aux Barques Light - Michigan’s thumb tip.
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Gerri taking a break from games on her cell phone.
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Whew! Whoop - whoop! “Home”!
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It’s craft beer time. Thanks again for following us!
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